The Earliest Irises: Welcoming Spring

by Tom Waters

reticulata iris 'Katharine Hodgkin'

While I enjoy the rest and simplicity that winter brings to the garden landscape, by January or February I find myself looking ahead eagerly to spring. Most gardeners think of irises as late spring flowers, bridging the time between spring bulbs and summer perennials. But there are many wonderful irises that bloom much earlier, and help the impatient iris lover through the long wait for bloom.

I garden in what is now zone 6 in northern New Mexico. (The older USDA map had us in zone 5). Here the last frost is usually in May. Tall bearded irises bloom in late May and early June. But my iris season begins in February, or sometimes even earlier!

Reticulata Irises

Iris danfordiae

The earliest of all irises in my climate are the reticulata irises (sometimes sold as “rock garden irises”). They often bloom right through the snow! These grow from bulbs, resembling crocus corms. They bloom along with the crocuses too, which is usually March here. However, I have a warm flower bed along the southeast side of the house, where spring bulbs bloom a month or more before those in the main garden. Here the reticulata irises are in full bloom in February; in some years they begin late in January.

reticulata irises blooming in the snow

These are small flowers, about the size of crocuses, though a bit taller. Most of the widely available ones are shades of blue, violet, or purple, often with a contrasting orange or yellow stripe on the falls. The earliest of all is the yellow Iris danfordiae. This little charmer has almost no standards, the shape of the bloom being formed by its wide falls and style crests. Its bright yellow color is accented by small leaf-green dots.

reticulata iris 'Cantab'

The blue, violet and purple forms in commerce are mostly forms and hybrids of Iris reticulata and Iris histrioides. Some of my favorites are the light blue 'Cantab' and the dark blue 'Harmony'. There are also white ones, and a lovely pastel blend of sky blue, cream, and gray tones, 'Katharine Hodgkin'.

These wonderful irises are available inexpensively almost anywhere you can buy crocuses, daffodils, and tulips. In some gardens, they multiply from year to year. Elsewhere, they may dwindle away. (Planting deeply may help.) But they are inexpensively replaced and well worth it for the cheer they lend to the late winter garden. It’s surprising that they are not as widely grown as crocuses or snowdrops. They surely deserve to be!

Dwarf Bearded Irises

Iris pumila

Iris pumila

Among the more familiar bearded irises, the earliest to bloom are the miniature dwarf bearded (MDB). Although these grow from rhizomes like their tall bearded cousins, they are less than 20 cm (8 inches) In height! An established clump presents a carpet of color before the taller ones are even sending up their stalks. These are available in a wide range of colors, patterns, and flower shapes to suit every taste.

Iris pumila 'Steppe'

In my garden, the bearded iris season begins with the species Iris pumila. This little gem is native to eastern Europe, from Austria to the Caucasus. Bloom usually begins here around the beginning of April, and carries on for a full month. The dainty, perky blooms come in violet, blue, yellow, cream, and white, often with a contrasting darker spot on the falls. They have hardly any stem at all, blooming right on the ground, with the tops of the blooms just a few inches above the soil. There are some named cultivars of the species, such as the well-known 'Little Drummer Boy', 'Suslik', and 'Hobbit', as well as more recent introductions such as 'Steppe', 'Royal Wonder', and 'Wild Whispers'. To find this delightful species, you will have to turn to specialist nurseries, either iris enthusiasts are rock-garden aficionados who seek out wild plants from around the world. Beware that there is an unfortunate practice in the nursery trade of labeling any small bearded iris as “Iris pumila”; if you see such a label at a local garden center or home improvement store, it is almost certainly not the real species.

Iris pumila 'Royal Wonder'

Iris pumila comes from regions where it is cold in winter. It does fine in my garden, where winter temperatures down to around 0 F are normal, but growers in warmer-winter climates report that it does not persist well for them.

There are two similar species, Iris attica and Iris suaveolens, that come from the southern Balkans, Greece, and western Turkey. It seems these might do better in warmer gardens, but they are not widely grown. Again, you will need to seek them from specialists.

Iris suaveolens

MDB iris 'Rosa Brooks'

Easier to find are the hybrid miniature dwarfs, derived from Iris pumila but with some tall bearded irises in their ancestry as well. These tend to be a bit larger than Iris pumila, and bloom later. Their time is late April into early May in my garden. Although not commonly found at garden centers, many commercial iris growers list some of them. These are available in all the colors seen in Iris pumila, as well as other colors from their tall bearded ancestry, such as pink, orange, plicata, and sometimes contrasting red or blue beards! They are quite adaptable to different climates, although most appreciate a winter chilling.

Some favorites of mine are'Alpine Lake' (white with a gentle blue spot), 'Icon' (bright orange with a darker spot) and 'Dollop of Cream' (ruffled creamy white).

MDB iris 'Icon'

By the time the miniature dwarfs have finished, iris season is well underway, with medians and arilbreds beginning to bloom and the tall bearded not far behind.

MDB iris 'Alpine Lake'

MDB iris 'Dollop of Cream'

I do love the head start on spring these earliest irises provide, but I would grow them even if they bloomed later. Their charm and daintiness speaks to me, and I enjoy the variety and fun they add to an iris collection.

Strong Reblooming Irises Hybridized by Sterling Innerst

Again and Again

by Betty Wilkerson

When you breed for rebloomers, or any specific type of iris, there is a constant search for irises that can contribute to your program.  Several of Sterling Innerst's earlier introductions rebloom in the warmer climates seven through ten.  Most do not give good rebloom in zones 6 or lower. When compared to the total volume of his tall bearded introductions, his contribution to colder climate rebloomers has been limited, but very important.

In the last ten years, or so, of his active hybridizing career, Sterling worked very hard to develop reliable rebloomers.  It takes a while for the good and bad points of rebloomers to become known.  By the time we get the full picture they have been grown in several parts of the country.  Several years ago, I purchased a few of Sterling Innerst irises reported to rebloom in colder zones, below zone 6b. 

'Again and Again' (Innerst 1999) 

Another angle of the same bloom.  

My introduction to ‘Again and Again’ (Innerst 1999) came with a July visit to the Iris Display Garden in Bowling Green KY.  I believe the year was 2005.  It was love at first sight!  The stalk was a bit short and the bloom nestled down near the foliage, but it was awesome, reminding me of white, pale yellow, and light brown tulle that I’d sewn in earlier days.  Simply divine!  I drove home and immediately put in an order for 'Again and Again' from Schreiners.  

Same clump in 2012

Sterling crossed ‘Renown,’ (Lloyd Zurbrigg 1992) reported to be a good cold climate rebloomers, with pollen from Ben Hager’s ‘Anxious.’ This produced ‘Again and Again’ (Innerst 1999) which was the first of a trio of very good rebloomers Sterling introduced.  It is now 15 years old and has been grown throughout the country.  I can only speak for how it has grown in my garden.  The pictures shown here are pictures taken in my garden in the spring of 2010 and 2012. 

When crossed with some of my own, 'Again and Again' produced a couple of rebloomers.  If everything goes well, I will use it more. It's not a perfect rebloomer in my garden, nor has it been a perfect rebloom parent, but it is definitely a good tool.  Do you grow any of Sterling Innerst's irises in your garden?

Rebloomers at Bridge In Time Iris Garden

After the Fall Freeze 2013 . . .

By Betty Wilkerson

 zone 6b in South Central Kentucky

It’s been an interesting year at Bridge In Time Iris Garden. Despite a fall freeze, and my inability to get into the garden much lately, some rebloomers have shown their beautiful faces through the weeds.  I have not fertilized for the past two years either, which has had an effect on the garden.  Weather was good for rebloom, but only a few faithful bloomed this year.  

Most of the larger, bloom-sized rhizomes were dug and sent around the country earlier this year. I have reports of some of these reblooming already in other areas. 

Bloom began here in late August with 1907-10Re.  In 2011, this was one of the two seedlings that bloomed all summer, but this year it didn’t show its beautiful face until late summer.  It was a welcome sight.  

1906-10Re Fall Overlay (Wilkerson seedling) 

Pretty as it may be, it does not always grow tall enough, and it's PURPLE.  Purple is a common color in reblooming iris.  Would you buy it?

1906-10Re-Beard (Wilkerson seedling) 

Currently, 'Over and Over' is one of the most dependable rebloomers in my garden. It wasn't the only one to rebloom in this difficult year, and it wasn't the first one to rebloom, but it did, and faithfully. I've discussed this with other breeders and many have said they won't use it because it isn't pretty enough, but I'd like to remind everyone that it is a really strong rebloomer.  Furthermore, when crossed on self irises it will not give plicata coloring.   

'Over and Over' (Innerst 2000) 

Toward the end of the season, but with plenty of time to open well, '2150-02Re' put up stalks. This is from 'Star Gate' X 'Matrix'.  Many seedlings from this cross rebloomed, but this one blooms the earliest and is most dependable.  Again we have the "dependable" quality, but not early enough, and PURPLE.  'Star Gate' is a dependable rebloom parent, but tends to breed only white or blue/purple with an occasional plicata.  Most often, this seedling will maintain the good fall form and also show an apron pattern like picture 2.

2150-02Re (Wilkerson seedling)

2150-02Re (Wilkerson seedling)  

Some might wonder why I've not made a cross between the two purple rebloomers.  Up to this point in time, I've not wanted to mix the beards.  '1906-10re' has many siblings and about a dozen have rebloomed. Same is true with '2150-02Re.'  With their parentage most of the seedlings would be purple and white plicata. Then there is the question on beard color.  There would be no chance of a tangerine beard.  Still, maybe next year!

Here are the seeds for 2013.  There are fourteen tall bearded crosses represented here!  They should start sprouting by April first, and I hope for lots of rebloom. Where there are irises and hope, there could be rebloom!

.

2013 seed crop

Are Your Irises Going to Pot?!

As boxes of rhizomes arrive at homes around the country, and gardeners talk about their new treasures, the discussion sometimes turns to the practice of potting. Some gardeners view potting rhizomes as an unnecessary extra step. Other gardeners view it as an integral part of their iris gardening. Though the practice was once considered unusual, it appears that many gardeners have added potting to their gardening routine as they learn more about the potential benefits offered. But, just how many? A recent survey of iris enthusiasts showed that 12% of respondents potted all of their newly dug rhizomes each year. Another 10% responded that they potted any rhizomes that required special care. The remaining 78% indicated that they planted all of their rhizomes directly in the garden. With 22% of respondents potting to some extent each year, let’s take a closer look at the “why” and “how” of this practice. 

Of that 22%, the majority indicated that they employed potting to help protect newly dug rhizomes from extreme environmental conditions while establishing new roots. In the South and Southwest, gardeners wanted to minimize exposure to excess heat and humidity. In many cases, these gardeners also wanted to delay the chores of reworking the soil and planting until the cooler weather of fall. In the North, gardeners potted rhizomes that arrived late in the season, when planting directly in the garden increased the risk of freeze damage. Gardeners who indicated they employed potting with rhizomes that were small, with rhizomes that appeared to be struggling in some way, and with rhizomes that warranted special care came from all geographic regions.  

Perhaps the most widely read information about potting rhizomes was written almost twenty years ago by Walter Moores, who grows and hybridizes irises in Yalobusha County, Mississippi. Mr. Moores has introduced almost 90 cultivars since 1977, and 18 of those have received AIS awards. His earlier work focused on reblooming irises, some of which can still be found in commercial catalogs today -- almost 40 years later! His recent work focuses more on tall bearded irises and species crosses. Having written about the subject of potting in an issue of the AIS Bulletin, Mr. Moores followed up with an article in the Tall Bearded Iris Society's Tall Talk (September 1998). Demonstrating that this information can prove useful in diverse climates, the article has been reprinted by many local clubs throughout the United States and now also appears on the current webpage of the Canadian Iris Society. Rather than trying to rewrite a classic, Mr. Moores’ original article is presented here, with just a few additional notes at the end. 

Starting Bearded Iris In Pots By Walter Moores Over the years the reasons for potting irises to give them a head start in growth have remained constant, but the techniques have changed somewhat. What follows is my experience with potting irises for over twenty years.   Why Do I Pot? I agree with Bob Strohman [of Louisville, KY] that when the new irises arrive, "It´s over 90 degrees, the ground is too dry and hard to dig, and we´re leaving for a vacation trip tomorrow anyway." So, if you live in the hot, humid South or Southwest and you bought a $45 introduction, you need to think seriously about setting that plant or any other for that matter out in the broiling heat. The alternative is to pot incoming rhizomes and to place the pots in a shady location. Potting irises has unexpected rewards. While it is so hot at planting time, winter weather and rhizome heaving seem remote. But that extra step of potting back in July and August to protect rhizomes from heat will eliminate rhizome heaving when the ground goes through the freeze/thaw cycles of winter. The root systems developed while the irises were potted will enable the plants to remain where they were planted. Potting does reduce losses during these two susceptible seasons. If bloom is expected on first year plants, potting them and getting them established early makes bloom a sure thing. There are more reasons for potting irises than not, and growth and bloom seem to be the priorities for doing so. The most desirable month for planting or transplanting irises in hot climates is September, when cooler temperatures make it more bearable to be outside, but it is often difficult to find a commercial source that still has blooming-size rhizomes for sale. Also, it has been my experience that when I have ordered early and requested late delivery, I have received inferior rhizomes. I have also had cancellations or gotten substitutes when I ordered in early spring and requested late August or September delivery. Typically, September is the driest month in the South, and the thirst of newly planted rhizomes can cause an added expense by inflating the water bill. So, to ensure you get quality plants of desired varieties, order early and pot the rhizomes. The boost the rhizomes get while in pots will almost guarantee first year bloom in your garden. How I Pot When a box of iris rhizomes arrives, open it immediately and check the rhizomes for mold or rot. If you find any, trim it off. Also, cut or shave off all roots. Then prepare a mixture of one part liquid bleach to nine or ten parts water. Soak the rhizomes for at least thirty minutes. Allow the plants to air dry before planting. The clorox bath is necessary to kill any rot potential that might have developed in transit and to prevent it from forming while the irises are potted. Plants may stay out of the ground indefinitely, but if a good head start is desired, the rhizomes should be planted within a day or two of receiving them. For years at iris sales or auctions I had always seen a few irises potted in black plastic pots. I used gallon pots when I first started potting irises, for I thought I needed at least a gallon of soil for the plant to survive. I did not trim the roots, nor did I provide a bleach bath. Most of the time I just used garden soil that became as hard as a brick when the pots dried out. At planting time it became a chore to move the heavy pots to their blooming spot and to dig a hole large enough to accommodate the contents of a gallon pot. After experimenting with a few four inch plastic pots, I have decided that they are perfect for the potting procedure. I have not found a rhizome too large to fit in one. If a rhizome has a snout (an extension of growth on the toe), cut it off and consider it to be a second rhizome and plant it in the same pot with the mother rhizome. The potting mixture should neither be friable or compact. A happy medium consists of one-third Magic Earth (a potting soil with fertilizer), one-third garden soil, and one-third sand mixed well. No other fertilizer is necessary. Place soil mixture in four inch pots up to the rim and soak with water. The soil may settle and more may be needed. Set the rootless rhizome half exposed in the soil and firm it with your fingers. Make sure the soil level is at the top of the pot so no water can stand in the pot. It would be almost impossible to place a rhizome in such a small pot if it still had the roots intact. New roots will form quickly and wrap around and around the soil in the pot. Tag or label the plant as usual. Watering the plants may become necessary depending on the weather. It is best to water the pots from the bottom up. Add water to a level of three inches in a galvanized tub, and place the pots in the tub. Allow the water to be absorbed through the drainage holes. Remove the pots when the soil is damp. It is important to move the pots occasionally so roots don´t find anchor through the drainage holes. A few weed seeds may sprout, but these are easily removed. Plants may be left in the pots until October to be planted where they are to bloom. In the meantime, preparations should be made for the iris beds or rows that will accommodate the new plants when it is time to unpot, one tap with a trowel will loosen the soil and root ball. That same trowel should have been used to dig a hole about four inches deep. For an extra boost, a balanced fertilizer might be added to the planting hole. Firm the soil around the plant and water. In summary, many people would consider potting irises to be double trouble. It really isn´t when one considers the growth and bloom potential of the potted irises over the traditionally planted irises. Losses are almost nonexistent. The author has given his permission for this article to be reprinted for educational purposes.

Mr. Moores recently stated that the one change he would make to the above article is to add this advice: "When potting rhizomes, remove the leaves as they die to prevent moisture accumulation."

Additional Notes: Magic Earth is recommended in the article above, but it is no longer available. Magic Earth had a guaranteed analysis of 9-6-5. As a substitute, look for an organic potting soil with a similar analysis, such as Miracle Gro Organic Potting Soil. Do not use Miracle Gro's standard potting soil, as it typically has too much nitrogen for use with bearded irises. Once you have selected an appropriate potting soil, it can be amended to best suit your climate. Common amendments used when potting bearded irises include Canadian sphagnum moss, coarse sand, horticultural vermiculite, bone meal, dolomitic lime, Super Phosphate, and granular fungicide. If adding fertilizer, choose one that is slow-releasing and low in nitrogen. Select free-draining pots from 4" to 6" in diameter.  

Do you have a technique or cultural practice that has proven beneficial in your iris gardening? Share it here!

Horticultural Vermiculite: For iris gardens from clay to sandy soil

It's almost time to dig and divide your irises... so now is the perfect time to take a look at soil amendments for better plant health. One of my favorite amendments is horticultural vermiculite. My southern bearded iris garden would not be possible without it, but even my moisture-loving Louisiana irises are happiest when this beneficial amendment is included in the soil blend. No matter what your climate or soil type, the addition of horticultural vermiculite can have a positive effect in your garden. 

'Flying Down to Rio' (Moores 2005) planted in vermiculite-amended soil

Vermiculite is a naturally-occurring geological material, more specifically a group of aluminum-iron magnesium silicates that closely resemble mica. When processed for horticultural use, vermiculite is introduced to intense heat, causing it to expand into multiple layers of very thin plates. The end result is accordion-shaped granules of sterile, disease-free planting medium. Vermiculite has been used by nurserymen and gardeners for decades, in potting soils and outdoor mixes, in turfgrass and outdoor plantings, for 100% vermiculite growing applications, and for hydroponic growing. Horticultural vermiculite improves soil aeration, assists in temperature regulation, and retains moisture and nutrients necessary to feed rhizome roots for superior growth.

Close view of coarse-grade horticultural vermiculite

Consider the following reasons for using horticultural vermiculite in your iris garden:

• Soils amended with horticultural vermiculite are better able to retain air, nutrients, and moisture, and release them to the plant as needed. Therefore, a planting medium mixed with vermiculite promotes faster root growth for quick anchorage of newly planted rhizomes.

• Because vermiculite has cation exchange properties, it holds ammonium, potassium, calcium and magnesium and makes these trace minerals available to the roots as needed.

• Horticultural vermiculite is a perfect growing culture for irises. The pH of vermiculite is neutral to slightly alkaline (7.0-8.0). It will not deteriorate quickly like most planting materials, and it will not turn moldy or promote rot.

SOIL AMENDING OR CONDITIONING
Coarse grade vermiculite is preferred for outdoor horticultural uses, though medium grade may also be used. With heavy soil, the addition of vermiculite creates much-needed air channels to greatly improve soil aeration. When soil is sandy, the addition of vermiculite helps the soil retain much-needed moisture. Soils may be amended up to a rate of two parts soil to one part vermiculite.

With a large garden area, you may choose to condition only the planting rows. If this procedure is continued for three to four digging cycles, the entire garden area will eventually be conditioned. Because horticultural vermiculite is inorganic, it will continue to function for many years.

Medium grade vermiculite is preferred for potting applications. When used in potting new rhizomes, vermiculite improves soil aeration and diminishes the risk of tender roots breaking as the irises are transferred to the garden. If starting with commercial potting soil, check the label before adding vermiculite, as it may already be present. If making your own potting mix, vermiculite may be added up to a ratio of one part compost material or soil to one part vermiculite.

Planting mix of two parts soil and one part horticultural vermiculite

SUMMER MULCH
If you live in an area that has little to no summer wind, you can use vermiculite to mulch around the rhizomes in the hottest summer months. Vermiculite acts as a constant reservoir of moisture without promoting rhizome rot, protecting your irises from dehydration and scorching during dry spells. This can be especially helpful immediately after digging time, when replanted rhizomes are settling in. After the intense heat passes and winds return, you can remove the vermiculite mulch and save it for use in potting or amending the following year. Or, you can mix it into the soil in other areas of your garden. Used as a mulch, vermiculite may be applied up to 3 inches thick.

FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS
After your irises begin blooming, you will want to bring some of those lovely blooms inside to enjoy. Fill a vase with vermiculite, saturate with tap water, and allow the vase to sit for a few minutes. Repeat this process until the vermiculite is no longer absorbing and water is visible on top. Then, pour off the excess water. Arrange your flowers as you would normally. Your flowers will remain fresh for many days without refilling, and the stems won't develop that unattractive slime that normally occurs when a stem sits in water. When placing flowers in vermiculite, be sure to cut the stems at a slight angle to facilitate wicking.

Flowers being arranged in a vase filled with water-saturated horticultural vermiculite

HOLDING OR SHIPPING RHIZOMES
Vermiculite can also be used at digging time. After you have provided a bleach bath for your newly dug rhizomes, allow them to air dry in the sun. Be careful not to let them bake; the idea is to let the exterior dry without dehydrating the interior. After the rhizomes are fully dry, place them in a storage container and pour vermiculite around them. The vermiculite will prevent moisture fluctuation during the storage period and will provide protection against temperature changes. Though iris rhizomes should never be stored long-term like a bulb, use of vermiculite allows your rhizomes to stay fresh many days longer before replanting. An exact length of time cannot be predicted here, as the timing is dependent on the hydration level of the rhizome (internally) prior to placement in the vermiculite. Vermiculite can also be used when shipping rhizomes to friends.

Rhizomes being placed into a shipping box filled with horticultural vermiculite

A FEW WORDS ABOUT SAFETY
In the past, you may have heard about a link between vermiculite and trace amounts of asbestos. For almost seventy years, vermiculite was used safely and effectively for many purposes, including construction and industrial applications. Then, in 1990, asbestos particles were discovered in vermiculite originating from a mine in Libby, Montana. This mine was primarily used to produce vermiculite for industrial, not horticultural, applications, under the tradename Zonolite. The discovery brought worldwide production of vermiculite to a screeching halt as scientists and regulators worked to determine if any other mines were contaminated. Since that time, strict inspection and safety procedures have been put in place. Though a warning label may still appear on the bag due to past Libby-related incidents, vermiculite is not listed on the OSHA List of Hazardous and Toxic Substances. Gardeners can feel confident that the horticultural vermiculite found in stores today is non-toxic and safe for use in their garden. Just remember, it is wise to use caution when working with dusty garden amendments of any type, including use of a dust mask and watering the garden area prior to application. 

What amendments have been useful in your garden? Post your comments below!

Learn more about horticultural vermiculite with these resources:

Material Safety Data Sheet for Vermiculite, SunGro Horticulture, issued March 1, 2008. This publication details the chemical and physical properties of vermiculite, verifies that vermiculite is not considered a hazardous or  toxic substance by OSHA, and provides useful supplemental information.

Statement by The Vermiculite Association on the USA Government Studies of Vermiculite and the Potential Asbestos Exposure, May 2005.

EPA Sampling and Analysis of Consumer Garden Products That Contain Vermiculite, August 2000. This report details the results of the first large-scale study of consumer garden products that contained vermiculite. Since the publication of this report, significant advances have been made in the processing and inspection of horticultural vermiculite sold to consumers.

Hi Desert Iris Society Best Artistic Design Winner 2013

By Andi Rivarola

Last month I had the good fortune to be a judge at the Hi Desert Iris Society's Spring Show in Lancaster, California. The show was fantastic with lots of bloom, and a fair amount of participants made the show a great success in my eyes. Nevertheless, many of the members mentioned strong winds in the days leading up to the show, but I did not see any signs of it. Stalks were well groomed and there was a nice variety of iris specimens.

I went home with a very uplifting feeling due to what I'm about to recount.

The young lady on the picture below, a teen and youth member, won Best Artistic Design beating all other entries -- all adults included -- in the advanced, novice and intermediate categories. The other two judges and I were completely fascinated by the design's completeness and utter commitment to the theme, which was Andy Warhol. (All the themes were named after real artists in history). Well, Warhol's pop art theme was masterfully recreated to the teeth. Her arrangement included a pot that represented Warhol's Campbell Soup can, and the irises included four different colors to also match the four-color creations by the master.

Ladies and gentlemen, let me introduce you to Katherine Shannon, Hi Desert Iris Society Artistic Design Winner for 2013.

IRISES, the Bulletin of the AIS - April/May 2013 Edition

By Andi Rivarola

Whether you can grow them or even if you have never seen MDBs (Miniature Dwarf Bearded irises) in person, you will enjoy the beautiful cover selected for the current issue of "IRISES, the Bulletin of The American Iris Society." It has a gorgeous photograph of a 1993 MDB by Ben Hager called, 'Dainty Morse,' a lovely little thing, which will move you with its beauty and elegance.

Be it because it's the spring issue, or just because, this edition is loaded with fascinating articles and if you're like me you won't be able to put this edition down until you have read it throughout. 

Some of the wonderful articles included are:

Saving Your Next Iris Show, by Jerry Wilhoit

With a strong recommendation by Jerry: if weather changes is getting you down, grow Louisiana irises.

Support Your Local Iris Show, by Cindy Rust

Rebloom's Past is Its Future, by Mike Lockatell

Portrait of Juno Irises, by Panayoti Kelaidis

Bloom Seasons in Tall Bearded Irises, by Jim Hedgecock

Tending Tiny Irises, by both Kelly Norris and Bob Pries

My Favorites Irises, (a regular featured section) by Anita Moran

And last but no least, a featured article with all the Winners of the AIS 2012 Photo Contest

For those new to The American Iris Society, as a member you will receive the printed edition of IRISES, or if you are an e-member, then you will be able to read the entire publication online. The latter is a very convenient option for overseas iris enthusiasts. For more information, please go to our website's membership information section.  Printed editions are in the hands of the Post Office, the e-version is ready for view at its normal location online. 

The 'BRICK METHOD' by Jim Murrain

    Oops, I did it again. I know it has happened to almost everyone. You pick up a few irises at your local sale and set the bag aside for planting later. Or maybe a box arrived when you were busy and was misplaced. Out of sight, out of mind. 

    Then, on a late Fall day you stumble across them. Horrors, are they still alive? Do I dare look in the box? What do I do with them NOW!

    If they are bearded iris then they are most likely fine. They are not happy by this time, though. Don't expect flowers next Spring, but there is an excellent chance you can save them. You have to plant them, right away, even though it's the wrong time of year. Don't wait until Spring as they will be even weaker by then. 

    They will sprout roots very quickly after planting as the soil is cool and moist this time of year. They will not have time to grow enough roots to withstand the rigors of the coming Winter without a little help. Fortunately, there is a very easy and reliable method to  protect them through this precarious predicament.

The 'BRICK METHOD'

   Plant the iris as you normally would in your climate. I have heavy clay so the rhizomes are just barely covered with soil. Then place a brick or flat rock immediately behind the fan on top of the rhizome. I usually leave the old foliage on until early Spring when I remove the brick. I have rarely lost an iris doing this unless it was actually dead by the time I found it. 

    Some people suggest a thorough soaking and a quick rinse in bleach water before planting but I haven't found that necessary. If you have a lot of irises to plant this way you can cover the rhizomes with a 2 x 4 board weighted at a few spots with bricks or stones.

    This even works with beardless irises but must be modified a tad. After planting place a brick on either side of the clump, close to, but not covering the new fans of foliage.

    This is one of the first things I remember learning after joining the Greater Kansas City Iris Society. Belonging to a local iris club is the best way to learn tips and tricks for growing irises in your area.